It was summer in Vermont and the sound of cicadas droned through the woods. This insect song was the inspiration Vinh Le needed to open his first restaurant space.
“Cicada is summer,” Le, the co-owner of Cicada Coffee Bar, told Boston Public Radio at the Boston Public Library on Tuesday. “Cicadas remind me about my childhood, about the times I relaxed.” Vinh Le and his life and business partner Duong Huynh, have created a restaurant at 106 Prospect St. that doubles as a community space, where patrons can slow down, connect and share food and drinks in the heart of Cambridge.
Ten years ago, Le left Vietnam for the U.S. to attend architecture school at Columbia University. During the pandemic, Le’s life slowed down and he decided he wanted to open a restaurant. But not just any restaurant — he wanted every aspect of the space to be tailored to the Cambridge community. The funky lighting, the handmade plates and the mid-century modern furniture are all designed with Cambridge tastes in mind. Customers might recognize the mid-century modern chairs from their grandmother’s house, Le said.
Once in Cicada’s cozy interior (after braving the line that often stacks up outside the restaurant), people consume locally sourced drinks and food inspired by Le’s home country. Vietnamese food is defined by lots of fresh ingredients and herbs, Le said. The menu includes fresh summer rolls filled with vegetables, sushi rice with salmon and mushrooms, banh mi sandwiches and noodle salad with charred eggplant.
The coffee is not to be missed. The sea salt shaker is the signature drink made with coffee, sea salt and condensed milk. All the ingredients are shaken vigorously in a cocktail shaker to create a frothy, milkshake-like beverage. “This is my performance,” said Le, as he showed off his bartending skills and poured iced coffee for hosts Jim Braude and Margery Eagan.
Vietnamese started using condensed milk in their coffee during the Vietnam War, said Le, when they didn’t have access to fresh milk. In addition to sweet caffeine, Cicada serves hot tea brewed with fresh ginger and lemongrass, plus homemade hot sauce.
Le's innovation has been recognized, it was announced in January that he is a semifinalist for the Emerging Chef James Beard Award. The short list of James Beard Award nominees will be announced Mar. 29.
When asked whether the nomination puts a burden on his shoulders, Le said he wasn’t bothered. He plans to continue cooking and creating community at Cicada no matter what happens. Still, he acknowledged it’s still stressful owning and operating a new restaurant. But this stress leads to hard work and creativity, said Le.
To balance the stress Le said he practices living in the moment, whether it is cooking food or picking up a shift for a sick coworker. BPR host Jim Braude asked Le’s partner Huynh, standing just off stage, whether that is true. “He tries every other moment to live in the moment,” said Huynh, with a laugh.
